We should have been on the bus from St David's to St Justinian's but, due to a panic over a lost wallet followed by a jog through the city (hah!) to the Police Station where a nice young lady in uniform failed to say "'Ello, 'elllo, I'll be 'ere now" but did reintroduce me to my wallet, we ended up up walking the extra couple of miles instead. No worries, it was a bright day and the tarmac led us mostly downhill along steep sided lanes, hedgerows dripping with blackberries and views of Carn Hen off to our north. Arriving at SJ's was a slight let-down; there isn't a tea shop, but there are loos and fantastic view across Ramsey Sound to the Bitches, the rocks that create some of the best rapids in the UK. Or some of the scariest water to kayak through, depending on your view!
St David's lifeboat slipway and Ramsey Sound
After "ooing" and "aahing" at the views across the sound, we wandered off to the south along the Pembrokeshire coastal path, easy walking with lots of interest; boats of tourists heading out, hoping to see seals and dolphins, the Bitches and the standing waves settling down as the tide ebbed, plenty of birds and butterflies and amazing colours in the heather and gorse alongside the path. We both commented on the numbers of butterflies that we saw; little white ones, Red Admirals and Painted Ladies - these having migrated from North Africa, well over a thousand miles away. Bloody tourists!
Sue enjoying the view from a headland above Ramsey Sound
Painted Ladies - on holiday from North Africa?
After an hour or so easy walking we started to turn toward the east as we dropped off the headland of Pen Dal-aderyn. Now the focus of our attention was the islands of the northern side of St Brides Bay and the hidden gems of Porth Clais and Carfei Bay - potential launch sites for kayaks later in the week. The path zigged and zagged around small bays and inlets, gently leading us down towards the water then back up over headlands and new views; close-up of individual cottages or wildflowers, further afield to Green Scar, off Solva, and to Skokholm and Skomer Islands in the far distance. If Carlsberg made coastal paths, they would have to try hard to beat this one!
Ramsey Island and Carreg Fran across St Non's Bay
Eventually we became aware that one of the inlets was bigger than most, and there was a tiny harbour at its end. Even better, a kiosk with tea and cakes! Porth Clais - definitely no contender for the best port in a storm, but one not to be missed.
Porth Clais - maybe the friendliest of many friendly places in Pembrokeshire
After a brew it was back up out of the harbour and over the hill toward Carfei Bay. Just befoe the end of this section of the path there is a slight detour to St Non's well and chapel. Legend has it that when Non gave birth to a son, David (Dewi) during a storm here, the spring suddenly appeared. Either way, the location of the ruined chapel of St Non, surrounded by iron age, pagan standing stones, St Non's well and shrine and the more modern chapel, with its William Morris stained glass, is stunning. It is no surprise that the house above the chapel is used as a retreat.
William Morris stained glass in the chapel of Our Lady and St Non
From St Non's it was a quick mooch along to Carfei Bay where Sue was waiting, perched on a convenient bench, for me and my camera. Ten minutes later we were back on the edge of St David's and, in a spirit of total recklessness, didn't bother with the bus (due the following morning) and hoofed it all the way back to Ocean Haze!
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