Saturday 12th September - Sunshine and Solva

Having discovered the cafe and loos at Porth Clais it was a no-brainer when it came to deciding where to launch; blazing sunshine and flat calm - we were off to Solva for a "there and back" paddle along the coast south of St David's. Parking and launching cost a grand total of £2 and the conversation with the harbourmaster was free. It is a while since I discussed the benefits of adding old engine oil to creosote in order to improve the latters preservative value, but it seemed although everyone else in the carpark had heard of doing just that, the HM hadn't. I imagine that he spent the next few days wondering if he should change the oil in his car a little sooner than planned!

Anyway, we were quickly on our way, leaving the harbour as the tide fell away an soon pootling along the coast exploring the many inlets and caves. This was no rough water survival test; in fact the only ripples came as our boats cut their way across the small bays and inlets of St Brides Bay.

Inner harbour, Porth Clais

Cave at Caer Bwdy

Green Scar off Solva with the headland of Dinas Fawr

After a couple of hours of fantastic scenery and exploring we left the coast for a while and made directly for Black and Green Scars, rocky islands about a kilometer off the entrance to Solva. A couple of small sailing dinghies were virtually stationary and fishermen in their open boats were pottering around, checking pots and trolling for mackerel - the one I chatted with had caught only 2 over the whole day, blaming the dolphins and sunny weather for chasing them away. That sounded fine to us!

The yatch club in Solva provided tea and Welsh Cakes for lunch which we ate while watching kids leaping off the harbour wall and making the most of the weather. The thought of more tea on our return to Porth Clais made it easy enough to clamber back into the boats and paddle west again, this time close inshore for more caving and rock hoping along a truly beautiful part of our coastline.

Inside looking out - The Cradle

Wreck near Porth y Rhaw (and a sunken ship)

For a while we tagged along with a flotilla of kayakers in a guided group, eavesdropping their guides commentary on some of the coastal features, particularly the rock climbing (on the off chance that we might have a play later in the week), but before long we were on our own again and pulling back into Porth Clais. Tea and fruitcake made a fitting end to a glorious days paddle (and the fruitcake is very highly recommended)!

Friday 11th September - A "bitch" of a day!

We should have been on the bus from St David's to St Justinian's but, due to a panic over a lost wallet followed by a jog through the city (hah!) to the Police Station where a nice young lady in uniform failed to say "'Ello, 'elllo, I'll be 'ere now" but did reintroduce me to my wallet, we ended up up walking the extra couple of miles instead. No worries, it was a bright day and the tarmac led us mostly downhill along steep sided lanes, hedgerows dripping with blackberries and views of Carn Hen off to our north. Arriving at SJ's was a slight let-down; there isn't a tea shop, but there are loos and fantastic view across Ramsey Sound to the Bitches, the rocks that create some of the best rapids in the UK. Or some of the scariest water to kayak through, depending on your view!

St David's lifeboat slipway and Ramsey Sound

After "ooing" and "aahing" at the views across the sound, we wandered off to the south along the Pembrokeshire coastal path, easy walking with lots of interest; boats of tourists heading out, hoping to see seals and dolphins, the Bitches and the standing waves settling down as the tide ebbed, plenty of birds and butterflies and amazing colours in the heather and gorse alongside the path. We both commented on the numbers of butterflies that we saw; little white ones, Red Admirals and Painted Ladies - these having migrated from North Africa, well over a thousand miles away. Bloody tourists!

Sue enjoying the view from a headland above Ramsey Sound

Painted Ladies - on holiday from North Africa?

After an hour or so easy walking we started to turn toward the east as we dropped off the headland of Pen Dal-aderyn. Now the focus of our attention was the islands of the northern side of St Brides Bay and the hidden gems of Porth Clais and Carfei Bay - potential launch sites for kayaks later in the week. The path zigged and zagged around small bays and inlets, gently leading us down towards the water then back up over headlands and new views; close-up of individual cottages or wildflowers, further afield to Green Scar, off Solva, and to Skokholm and Skomer Islands in the far distance. If Carlsberg made coastal paths, they would have to try hard to beat this one!

Ramsey Island and Carreg Fran across St Non's Bay

Eventually we became aware that one of the inlets was bigger than most, and there was a tiny harbour at its end. Even better, a kiosk with tea and cakes! Porth Clais - definitely no contender for the best port in a storm, but one not to be missed.

Porth Clais - maybe the friendliest of many friendly places in Pembrokeshire

After a brew it was back up out of the harbour and over the hill toward Carfei Bay. Just befoe the end of this section of the path there is a slight detour to St Non's well and chapel. Legend has it that when Non gave birth to a son, David (Dewi) during a storm here, the spring suddenly appeared. Either way, the location of the ruined chapel of St Non, surrounded by iron age, pagan standing stones, St Non's well and shrine and the more modern chapel, with its William Morris stained glass, is stunning. It is no surprise that the house above the chapel is used as a retreat.

William Morris stained glass in the chapel of Our Lady and St Non

From St Non's it was a quick mooch along to Carfei Bay where Sue was waiting, perched on a convenient bench, for me and my camera. Ten minutes later we were back on the edge of St David's and, in a spirit of total recklessness, didn't bother with the bus (due the following morning) and hoofed it all the way back to Ocean Haze!

Thursday 10th September - Ludlow: Sausage City

We're off! St David's in Pembrokeshire for a few days with an overight in Ludlow on the way. Why Ludlow? Jacobean and medieval architecture (i.e. Olde Worlde charm) and, apparently, food. As luck would have it, this pretty little Shropshire market town was hosting its annual food festival the weekend after our visit, so the Thursday market was brim full of specialist food stalls. As well as stocking up on goodies for lunch, there were plenty of "taster" opportunities and Curley could well have added additional padding during our stay!

Where are the sausages then.....

"The Feathers", Ludlow

According to the New York Times, "the most handsome Inn in the world"

Jacobean bay windows. Really??

St Laurence's Church tower above more timber frames

Tuesday 8th September - Helvellyn's Edges

Andy and Virginia had been staying with us for a few days and the weather had not really been playing ball, but the forecast looked promising and we were all eager to get out. Andy and I had a think and he was keen to wander over "one of the big ones" while I fancied something out Patterdale way. No brainer then; Helvellyn by Striding Edge and down by Swirral...

Patterdale was, as ever, busy so we ended up parking at the steamer pier on the lake. Handy (loos and brews as required) carparking and an alternative start by walking into the Glenridding valley before turning south and up to Lanty's Tarn, through the woods and contouring around until picking up the path to the Hole in the Wall. Unfortunately we were about half way up to the wall when Sue decided that enough was enough: she had dropped a couple of painkillers but her tendonitis was giving her a lot of grief and she had to turn back. Virginia went with her leaving Andy and I to continue, estimating that we'd be back at the car by 4 pm.

Once at the Wall we joined the masses heading onto the Edge, but all was good with the sun reflecting off Morecombe Bay and Chapel Island standing out in silhouette. We were soon over Striding Edge and broke north west to avoid the loose ground before hitting the broad summit plateau just short of the shelter.

After a quick munch and swig of juice we were off again, passing a dozen or so folk as we dropped onto then crossed Swirral Edge. Catstycam was left for another day as we thought the girls could only drink so much tea in Patterdale and we didn't want to be back late! Once clear of Red Tarn we took the track down towards the old lead mine workings in Glenridding, following the beck past the converted mine buildings and YHA onto the Greenside road and eventually the carpark. The girls and dogs were sitting by the lake as we landed, 5 minutes late and ready for a brew!

Helvellyn and the Edges; 8 miles, 2900 feet

Photos to follow.....

Saturday 5th September - Cumbrian fayre; Lowick Show

Andy and Virginia were visiting and it was the morning after the night before for me; a lazy day and plenty of coffee in store. Until somebody suggested a run out to the Lowick Show. Thanks Viginia ; )

In fact it was a fun way to get some life back into myself; the sun shone, helping to dry the mud off our boots, the cakes looked grand and next year Sue says that she'll enter a fruit cake in the home baking competition (though my inspiration was to go home and make chutney...)

A bunch of Cumbrian crooks...

... and their get-away driver

This brings back memories (you had to be there!)

Nasturtiums? I have no idea...

Time I was somewhere else!

Monday 31st August - Liquid lunch on Loughrigg

The first real stretch of my legs following my op. A bright enough day as we set out, but some sneaky weather followed us from the west...

Having left the car on the roadside at Loughrigg Fold, the boys were off on a squirrel chase as swe followed paths around Loughrigg Tarn then through open woodland under Ivy Crag before turning north and gaining height steadily to the knock and lochan plateau of Loughrigg itself. Just befoe topping out a few gusts of wind were followed by a heavy shower which saw us scuttle up to the trig. point and head downhill again without too much delay. The rain soon cleared and we stopped for a quick bite above the trees of Intake Wood. The leaves were just starting to turn so although the views over Loughrigg Tarn and Elterwater are not that extensive, they were pretty special.

A lovely little walk, just right for a late autumn afternoon or crisp winters morning (and another Wainwright ticked off!).

Saturday 8th August 2009 - Changeable weather on Pillar

The forecast suggested a good day and, as we'd not been for a good walk for a while, we'd decided to meet in Wasdale for a look at the tops around Pillar. Leaving my car at Overbeck Bridge, Sue drove us the the Head where, after a quick brew (flask, not vending machine, grrrr!) we headed up into Mosedale under blue but fluffy skies.

The Mosedale Hills with Yewbarrow and the gap of Dore Head to the left, Red Pike and Pillar

From Mosedale, across Wasdale Head toward Illgill Head

The walking on the east side of Mosedale, toward Black Sail pass, is gentle enough with height gained gradually and stunning views back over Wasdale Head with Yewbarrow and Red Pike to the west. What was ominous though was the dark cloud building to the south west and the wind following us from the same direction...

Just below Black Sail pass - before the wind arrives

No sooner did we get onto the ridge proper the wind picked up. The decision to get onto Pillar by the high level path above Ennerdale was the obvious one to go with as it kept us sheltered from the wind and provides great views across Ennerdale to the Buttermere Fells and well beyond.

Black Sail hut and the drumlins at the top of Ennerdale

Soon we were eating lunch - thanks Sue x - by Robinson's Cairn with the Pisgah and High Man, the uppermost parts of Pillar Rock, looming above us. Plenty of other folk wandered past, all heading toward the Shamrock traverse and the summit plateau of Pillar itself.

Plaque unveiled by Cecil Slingsby commemorating one of Lakeland's earliest climbers and guides

The top of Shamrock traverse, Pisgah, the Notch and High Man from Robinson's Cairn

The pull uphill from the Cairn goes surprisingly easily, mostly I suspect due to the interest underfoot! Verging on easy scrambling the situation soon gives great views onto the rocky butresses of the Rock and, today, climbers getting ready to bail from the top in ever-decreasing visibility.

Sue leaving Pisgah and High Man behind

My compass and map came out 30 feet below the plateau so that I could take a quick bearing toward the summit cairn in the wind shadow rather than take a pasting once "over the edge". Despite the precaution, things weren't too bad on the top, though the weather wasn't conducive to hanging about! One group that we'd spoken with earlier had decided to descend into Ennerdale via White Pike rather than the ridge leading back to Black Sail, but, despite having their GPS on the job, were unable to find the path. Having checked their map and working out a compass bearing for the ridge to Black Sail option, the last we saw was them heading back toward White Pike.

We had a think about where next; given the weather and complete lack of view (as might be expected in 50 metre visibility) the most direct way off had to be Wind Gap into Mosedale. So, a quick bearing and off into the clag. Now, today's lesson begins... most direct does NOT mean quickest. In fact, this descent has to be one of the worst I've ever made in the the Lakes; from 2920 feet to 620 feet - that's 2300 feet - in a mile. Thrashing over run-out scree or blocks varying between housebrick and big loaf size. Or thin soil over rock. Just not nice and a quads killer. Next time I'll be staying with the plan and going over Little Scoat Fell, turning towards Red Pike before dropping down to Scoat Tarn at the col unless the weather really kicks up in which case it'll be back the way we came or south east back to Black Sail pass.

Anyways, all's well that ends well and, despite being at Wasdale Head, the cuppa at the bottom definitely went down a treat!

The boys chillin' on Pillar

Post-script: On Sunday night 23 people were led off Pillar, from the Looking Stead area, by members of Wasdale and Cockermouth MRTs. The weather was markedly better than we'd had; their torches were seen from Black Sail Hut and the teams alerted. Apparently this was the 6th incident involving the same Gateshead school and Lakes MRTs in so many years...slow learners or just trying to get closer to their God?

25th & 26th July 2009 - Sea kayaking - in search of peace and quiet

Somewhere local and not too challenging for Sue's first overnight from our sea kayaks; launch at Roa Island, float up Barrow Channel with the tide, lunch break, tide turns, back down to Piel Island for the night and an easy paddle back the following morning. Sue checked with the pub on Piel and, yes, they were serving food, yes, we could camp on the island, yes, the facilities exist but are a tad basic. I consulted the chart, tide tables, almanac and weather forecast.

So: weather looking fine but blowing up a bit overnight on Saturday. Tides good for the plan. Kit packed in the car on Friday night and a lazy Saturday start saw us loading said kit into our boats by the Bosun's Locker under blazing blue skies. What could go wrong... oh dear, oh dear me!

Indian country? Between Barrow and Walney Island

The tide was certainly behaving exactly as forecast as we left Roa brhind us and were swept easily along the channel, first past the saltings and the dockside housing estates of Barrow. Then the docks themselves, staring across to suburban Walney, as we threaded our way between moored yachts on the edge of the deep water channel. Maybe it was the sunshine and blue skies, or the ease with which we part drifted, part paddled, enjoying the familiar landscape from an unfamiliar viewpoint. Either way, this was fun!

The lifting bridge closed as we approached, having let a fleet of yachts through ahead of us, although with no wind to speak of we were soon gaining on, and then, paddling like a frenzied thing taking frenzy pills, Sue was passing some of them! To top that, she spotted a beach for our lunch stop - on the opposite side of the channel. No worries; the water-bourne banshee promptly paddled straight through the middle of the annual Round Walney regatta fleet!

Lunch time and high water - Black Combe across the Duddon estuary

The current in the channel was still running to the north as we set out again, now paddling upstream back towards Barrow. As it turns out, the tide doesn't turn at, or anywhere near, high water. In fact it continues to run to the north as the northern end of the channel simply drains into the Duddon estuary, leaving this end of the channel high and dry until the next flood. Acording to the locals, the current slackens (relative term!) about 90 minutes after HW; take note for next time.

Once clear of the road bridge - which involved some strenuous break-outs and hard paddling between eddies - we could start to relax again. Hugging the Walney coast, we passed salt-marshes with plenty of bird life and cross currents caused by lagoons emptying into the main channel. Taking care to keep more than a few inches of water under our keels, we slowly made our way back toward Piel Island and our overnight stop.

Piel Island - campsite, pub and popular party venue

Before long we were ashore and our tent pitched between the pub and castle; we did make one or two unexpected observations though: the pub was closed for a refit; a burger van was parked outside the pub and a large marquee had been erected by the bunkhouse which was substituting bar... A walk around the island (less than 10 minutes) led us to believe that (a) we weren't alone and (b) that we shouldn't expect a quiet night!

The Ship Inn and outbuldings on Piel (oh, and the 14th century castle)

The Yorkshire Dales across Morecombe Bay

South Walney from Piel Island

The rest of the evening unfolded; down to the pub, minute steak and fries for dinner, more cider, a busload (literally - a bus brought them from Barrow to Walney) of folk walked or drove onto the island over mud that we'd paddled over a couple of hours earlier, the music started and a merry old time was had by all. Except maybe the youngsters who over-did the drink, had their tents collapsed as the wind and rain arrived in the small hours and left their belongings and much of their stomach lining in the field before climbing onto the ferry in the morning.

Barrow Channel - Low Water (note the 4x4 driving across from Walney)

Coniston Old Man above Roa Island

Party time on Piel Island!

Just before Sue & I gave our rendition of Flower of Scotland...

(it wasn't just the kids that enjoyed their evening!)

Sunday 5th July - Seals chips and ice cream...

Roa Island Boat Club, an apparently detached head wearing a floppy white hat swimming through the moorings, a "close-run thing" with the lifeboat (don't wait at the bottom of the slip when she's being launched!), Piel Island and the castle.

Sue smiling (I suspect) as she turned her boat in the chop of South Walney and then surfed back in so that we could go bother the seals - "how do you do that rudder thing...?"; paddling in a tee shirt.

The Bosun's Locker, hand-cut, crispy chips with tomato ketchup. Double scoop ice cream, blazing sunshine, coffee and a bench overlooking Peil Island, the RNLI station and Barrow Channel.

Happy days!

I'm watching you....

...not...

...am...

Sue and Piel Castle

Saturday 4th July - Ever rushed to catch a train?

Despite setting the alarm clock and actually getting out of bed early on a Saturday morning, by the time we reached the beach by Conishead Priory there was only about an hour and a half of the flood tide left so we set off on a long ferry glide toward Chapel Island. On arriving we discovered that it was no island at all, bring connected to the far side of Morecombe Bay by a sand and shingle spit; good feeding for the ducks, geese and other waders though. We quickly spun the boats around in water only 6" deep in places - amazing how much power one can put into a stroke when half an inch of paddle blade is buried in the sand - and made for Canal Foot and the Leven estuary.

Geese walking on water by Chapel Island

There was still a bit of the flood tide left and before too long we passed Canal Foot and had a good view of the Hoad Monument standing above Ulverston. Except we didn't since it is wrapped in scaffolding and protective sheets in readiness for repair work (probably as soon as this fantastic spell of weather breaks!).

Cracking on, we passed under the railway viaduct - where we were "buzzed" by a train - and into the estuary proper. This is a surprisingly peaceful, unspoilt area. Open fields and farmland lead the eye to wooded, low lying hillsides above the estuary and there were plenty of birds feeding on the ever shrinking sand banks as the tide reached its peak. Plenty of small fish breaking the surface also - maybe along the freshwater / saltwater boundary or because we were disturbing them, the water or the estuary bed - who knows?

Sue, Canal Foot and the Hoad Monument

We were now an hour after HW and so time to head back downstream. Just as well we called it when we did; although we had probably a knot and a half carrying us down (by Canal Foot), by the time reached the beach the water had dropped so far that we had a good 100 metres of mud to drag the boats across. The coffee sure did taste good after that!

Back onto the Bay - Chapel Island in the distance